Deer hunting season was quickly approaching, which in North Central Pennsylvania is similar to a national holiday. I asked my boss if I could borrow a travel trailer to use for a hunting trip. To my shock and surprise he said yes. I don’t remember all of the details about the travel trailer, but I do know it was a Shasta because it had the classic wings on the back. I would guess that it was a mid to late 1960’s model and it was about 20’ long. The only conditions for borrowing the trailer were to bring it back in one piece and not to use the water system because it was winterized and the temperatures were in the low teens. Hunting season started the Monday following Thanksgiving and I invited my best friend to go with me. We were going to head up into the foothills on Saturday to get set up.

I owned a 1970 Chevy Blazer. It was a full size K5 model and it had a six-cylinder engine. Now, you would think that working for an RV dealership I would have access to and use the proper hitch work and brake control to tow the trailer. I do remember wiring a plug for the trailer lights, but figured since I wouldn’t be towing the trailer on a regular basis I could forgo the brakes and just drop the trailer on the ball and go. Now you have to remember, I knew everything back then. There were no pre-trip checks or inspections. We picked up the bare essentials, a pot and pan, some groceries, our sleeping bags and hunting equipment and off we went.

It was about a sixty-mile trip to our favorite hunting destination. The first forty miles were on two-lane paved roads and the last twenty miles a winding, snow covered dirt road barely wide enough for one vehicle. If you encountered traffic going the opposite direction somebody had to back up until there was a spot where both vehicles could pass. I can remember the Blazer didn’t seem to steer as well as normal and if I would have had to stop quickly I would have hit whatever was making me stop so quickly. I took a deep sigh of relief after the white-knuckle experience of getting to our destination and thanked my lucky stars that the trailer was still in one piece, but little did I know that was just the beginning of my first real RV adventure.

We set the trailer up, which really wasn’t anything more than leveling it from front to rear with the tongue jack and turning the LP gas supply on, and then we settled in for the first night. We figured since it was cold out we didn’t need to use the refrigerator, so we left our groceries in the Blazer. The furnace was the old style that you had to light manually. Soon after I got it to light it warmed the entire trailer up. For dinner we heated up some pork and beans on the range top and ate them out of the pan because we forgot to bring plates. Afterwards we played some cards and then turned in for a good nights sleep. The next morning I went to the Blazer to get some bacon and eggs for breakfast. The eggs were frozen solid. We fried some bacon and later that morning we used the frozen eggs as targets to sight our hunting rifles in. We washed the pans in the stream since we didn’t have any water and the rest of the day was spent in the cozy warm trailer. After another dinner of pork and beans I put all of the cans and other garbage in a plastic bag and set it outside the door. The next morning was opening day. It was difficult to relax and go to bed that night, but knowing we would be getting up early we forced ourselves to go to bed.

The first major event of the night was waking up at 1 AM because it was five degrees inside the trailer. The trailer only had one 20-pound LP gas bottle and with the furnace running non-stop since we arrived the day before, it was empty. Fortunately, I did have enough insight to bring a spare 20-pound bottle. I told my friend that since I got the trailer for us he would have to get out of his sleeping bag, change the bottle and light the furnace. After some reluctance and a few choice words he stumbled outside and changed the bottle. Soon it was warm again and we were both back to sleep.

Somewhere around 3 AM the trailer began to shake, I mean literally shake back and forth. I turned a small overhead light on and looked over at my friend to see if he was awake. Not having any clue what was happening we both stared, wide-eyed, at each other. I pulled the curtain away from the window and peered outside. It took a minute to focus my eyes in the dark, but I soon realized there were two bears outside. A small black bear cub and its not so small mother pushing against the side of the trailer. Not really sure what to do we both got our hunting rifles, loaded them and stood back, ready for when the bear would come through the door or break a window. We waited for what seemed like forever at the time, but it was probably a minute or two before the shaking stopped. We glanced out the window again and there were no signs of the bears anywhere. Needless to say we didn’t get anymore sleep before it was time to head out to our favorite hunting spots early that morning. When we walked out of the trailer we soon realized why the black bears stopped to visit us that night. There were pork and bean cans and other garbage scattered everywhere.

Another reason this memory remains clear in my mind is because at 8:10 AM on opening day I shot my first 8-point whitetail buck on a ridge about 80 yards from where I was sitting. My friend heard the shot and came over to check it out. After field dressing the deer it took us about two hours to drag it down the long ravine, back to the trailer. Knowing that we had plenty of LP gas for one more night we fired up the furnace and ate some more pork and beans. After making sure there was no garbage outside we settled in to the warm, cozy trailer and played cards while I recounted the events of the great whitetail hunt over and over again.

We did manage to get the trailer back home safely and other than some remnants of a hungry black bears paw prints on the side of the trailer it was still in one piece. That nearly disastrous weekend hunting trip, in freezing cold weather, spent in the small Shasta travel trailer, is when I got bit by the RV bug. Who would have thought that twenty-eight years later I would be working in the Industry that I have such a passion for? We just finished our seventh video and guess what the title is? “RV Towing, Weights, Hitch Work & Backing”, I guess I didn’t want other people to make the same mistakes I made. Happy Camping,

One event, though, can ruin your whole day–and possibly several days. That disastrous event: the sudden loss of your RV’s awning to a gust of wind while driving down the highway.

This loss can result in anything from a loosened awning with no damage to a completely destroyed awning (fabric, support arms, fittings, and all!) with significant damage to your coach. The cost to repair can run into the thousands of dollars.

Your trip can be delayed. The first delay is simply getting the awning rolled up again, if the only action was that it became unfurled with no damage. But if there was damage, you will be further delayed while cleaning up the mess. And if you need repairs before you can continue your trip, that creates additional delay and expense. As you can see, the “recreation” in Recreational Vehicle has been suddenly and temporarily removed. The frustration: Priceless.

Many people believe the cause of the awning loss was that the support arms somehow “came loose” and simply fell down. Therefore, they reason, tying the support arms together, fore and aft, with a strap of some sort, often of Velcro or a cable tie, should prevent the arms from falling down and therefore prevent the loss of their RV’s awning.

This is the greatest myth in RVing!

The awning does not unfurl because the arms fall down. It becomes unfurled because air, usually a gust of wind from the side, got between the roller arm and the side of the coach, put pressure on the awning fabric, and the awning manufacturer’s locking mechanism failed to perform its intended function.

When the locking mechanism fails, the roller tube rotates and the awning fabric is free to unroll. This creates an ever-larger area which exerts increasingly greater forces. (Much like a sail; think of your RV going down the road with a spinnaker!) Something’s got to give! And it does.

To prevent such an unpleasant event and a temporary end to the RV owner’s “recreation,” something must be done to prevent the roller tube from rotating. If it can’t rotate, the fabric can’t unroll and become that powerful sail mentioned earlier.

There are at least half a awning locks intended to prevent rotation of the roller tube when the built-in mechanism fails. Some are do-it-yourself devices which cost only a few bucks to create. One is even free, as it is simply the use of the existing awning wand to prevent roller tube rotation!

Some awning locks detract from the appearance of the coach on which they are mounted. Still others require either many seconds to engage or disengage or a modest amount of finesse with the awning wand.

A simple search for “awning lock” on Google will provide several choices for you to consider. You will quickly find as you do the research that some commercially manufactured awning locks have list prices of well over $50. But even that is a small price to pay for the reduction in risk provided by a quality and effective awning lock. (The next time you talk to someone who has lost his, ask him if he would have been willing to pay $50 to not have had it happen to him! Most would consider it the bargain of a lifetime!)

Here are things to consider, listed roughly in order of importance:

• Effectiveness
• Appearance
• Price
• Ease of use
• Quality
• Ease of installation
• Support by seller

As they say, your mileage may vary. But make up our own chart and compare the offerings. When you decide which awning lock to put on your RV you will have a good basis for your decision.

Keep the “recreation” in your RV by installing an effective awning lock!!

Here are a few facts about Idaho that can help you decide if you want to visit.

- Idaho is the most forested of all the Rocky Mountain States, with nearly half of its land covered in tall, whispering pines.

- More than half of the land in the state is federally protected, which means that it’s more than half national park.

- It is also one of the wettest of the Rocky Mountain States, with thousands of lakes, rivers and streams winding through its forested mountain terrain. That also means some of the best fishing in the Rockies!

You can thank the massive ice-age glaciers for the beauty of northern Idaho. When they melted, they left behind all the lakes, rivers and reservoirs that cut their way through the lush evergreen forests. Up in the north, where along the Montana border, are the Idaho side of the Bitterroot Mountains, a favorite mountain range of campers, hikers and fisherman all over the country.

This is also the area where the famous French expedition crossed on its way to see exploring the Louisiana Purchase. The area is rich with history and culture. You can learn about the early journeys of explorers to the great northwest, and the Nez Perce tribe that still lives there and practices its traditional culture to this day.

In the central part of the state, you will find historical highways that cross the great rivers including the Salmon River, Little Lost River and Silver Creek. In the northeast, every highway is a scenic drive, and you’ll want to make sure you take your time and make lots of stops along the way. Bring plenty of film!

You can also see Craters of the Moon National Monument, a truly unearthly terrain of lava rocks, sagebrush and cinder cones. Craters of the Moon is so named because of its lunar landscape and eerie otherworldliness. It is definitely a place you’ll want to see along the way.

In southern Idaho, the lush forest begins to give way to high desert. The Snake River winds through the high country, leaving an arid valley full of pretty desert scenery and lots of great fishing spots.

Anywhere you stop along the way, you’ll find a decent motor home park. Idaho is known all over the RV world as the place to go, and there are great accommodations everywhere. Here are a few of the local RV parks that get the best customer satisfaction ratings.

Hi Valley RV Park - Boise

Open all year round, Hi Valley RV Park is conveniently located just five minutes from downtown Boise. It’s a perfect spot the mixes the city conveniences and the wilds of the mountains. They also have all kinds of information about things to do all over the state. You can contact them by phone or email for more information.

Bambi RV Park - Coeur d’Alene

If you’re taking in Idaho’s beautiful forested north, Bambi is a great place to stay. It is a small and friendly mom-and-pop RV park with 21 spaces and full hook-ups. Located in Coeur d’Alene, it puts you close to grocery stores, restaurants and other city entertainments. They have a toll-free you can call for more information.

Waters Edge RV Resort

For more remote lodging along the beautiful Payette River, check out Waters Edge. You can walk right off your campsite and find wonderful hiking, fishing and other activities. They also offer sailing, horseback riding, and they have a wonderful hot springs nearby. You can contact them by phone or e-mail for additional information.

Idaho is an RVer’s paradise. Go there yourself and you’ll see why everybody’s always talking about “The Gem of the Mountains.”

Hopping on an airliner may seem great, the plane takes off and within a few hours you are in a new place. But you just missed out on some really wonderful places to visit as you flew over. Small towns can have some really great hidden treasures just waiting to be explored.

So how do we slow down and have a fun and relaxing vacation? Go Rving. Thats right, take an RV trip with the family. Throw the plan out the window, forget about the airline tickets, the RV is your transportation, hotels not needed and your itinerary can be made up as you go.

Our daily life is full of stress, checking your date book and PDA just to make sure you have time to get a cup of coffee. Why would you want your vacation to be the same? The open road awaits and whatever time you get there will be just fine.

Grab your atlas(thats right a paper atlas) and draw a big loop on the map. You have just planned your trip. No stress involved in that. The only thing left to do is pack a few clothes and some food. Once this is taken care of you are ready to go.

As you are traveling down the road watch for signs and little shops/restaurants. Let these be your guide to your next stop. Visiting mom and pop stores can be a great source of information. Talk to the owners and find out what kind of treasure the area has to offer. Remember there are still some really friendly people out there if you know where to look.

Thats it, you now have a plan for your next vacation. Oh, and if you don’t have an RV thats just fine, just rent one. But beware, you may end up addicted to Rving and buy your own RV.

Speaking of warranty, if you do decide a used RV is your best choice, check to see if there is any type of warranty available. If you buy a used RV from a private owner it is normally AS IS with no warranty. This is true with many RV dealers too. Replacing an RV refrigerator or other major appliance can be very costly. Most RV dealers will offer an extended service plan or contract if the used RV meets the service plan criteria. You can also purchase these plans from RV clubs and reputable websites on the Internet. The age of the unit will factor into the cost of the plan but you should be able to negotiate with the dealer concerning a service plan. Make sure you read all of the fine print and understand exactly what is covered and what is not covered in any type of service plan or contract you purchase. Many times service plans offer different levels of coverage based on the cost of the plan. You also want to be sure that other RV dealers and repair facilities will honor the service plan you purchase. It won’t do you any good if you need repairs while you’re traveling and nobody will honor the plan.

Another factor to consider between buying new or used is how long you plan to keep the RV. What I mean by this is if you buy an RV with the thought in mind that as soon as you get your next pay raise you’re going to upgrade to a larger RV, it would be best to consider buying used. RV’s depreciate, they do not appreciate. If you buy a new RV and trade or sell it within the first couple of years you will lose a substantial amount of money. In many cases a used RV has already suffered the brunt of the depreciation and you don’t stand to lose as much if you get rid of it sooner. This of course will depend on how much you pay for the used RV. Most RV dealers use the NADA guide for Recreation Vehicles to determine used RV pricing, www.nada.com.

Used RV prices are based on the age of the unit, the condition, options and mileage, if it’s a motorized RV’s. The NADA guide has wholesale and retail pricing for used RV’s, and all NADA pricing assumes the RV is in good condition, and proper working order. Ask to see the NADA price for the unit you are considering purchasing or look it up on the Internet. For accurate figures you will need to know the make, model, year, options and for gasoline motorhomes, the chassis manufacturer and mileage. You wouldn’t pay full Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) for a new RV, so you shouldn’t pay full NADA retail price for a used RV either. Some used RV’s are in more of a demand than others, but if the used RV is in good condition and everything operates properly a fair price would be somewhere between NADA wholesale and retail price.

Another consideration when thinking about purchasing a used RV is the finance terms and interest rates. Because the RV is used, banks offer shorter finance terms and higher interest rates compared to new RV financing. See the finance section of this chapter for more information.

If you decide to purchase a used RV make sure that all of the systems and appliances operate properly, and that there is no type of hidden damage that can’t easily be seen. Damage caused by water leaks can be hard to detect and extremely costly to repair. If you are not knowledgeable about RV’s you should take someone with you who is, to inspect the unit you are considering purchasing. It may be possible to hire somebody to thoroughly inspect the unit before you buy it. Most RV dealers will give you a walk through orientation of the RV and demonstrate that everything is operating properly. I recommend that you purchase an RV training video on the type of RV you are buying and view it prior to the scheduled walk through. You will have a much better understanding of how everything works and you can ask more targeted questions.

Be sure to consider the cost, how you plan to use the RV, warranty, and how long you plan to keep the RV when deciding whether to buy new or used.

Learn About Your Options

The first thing you are going to want to do is learn about the different RV generator models that are out there so that you can choose the one that is going to be best suited to you and your needs. The most popular are diesel, propane and gasoline.

There are super quiet models which run almost completely silently. There are also all inverter generator models which feature a load dependant throttle so that they only run exactly as fast as needed for whatever your specific load requirement is at that time.

Where to Shop

There are definitely a lot of options available when it comes to where to shop for your RV generator. Funroads is one company in particular that you can go to for a generator for your recreational vehicle, and they actually offer one of the largest selections today. They have a knowledgeable and experienced staff that is there, with members who are more than willing and able to help you out step by step through this process.

Remember that although most models of generator are small and compact, you can choose a larger sized model if this is going to benefit you more. You really need to take your own personal needs into consideration here in order to be able to choose the RV generator that is going to be best suited to you.

You also want to remember that in order to determine the size of generator you are going to need you will have to calculate the expected power consumption of all the utilities inside of the RV. Determine how much power you are going to be using on a regular basis, for instance maybe you like to blow dry your hair or listen to music in your RV, and you will have to consider this when trying to decide what size generator to purchase.

If you are not sure about which RV generator to go with then you should know that there are some experienced and knowledgeable professionals out there who are going to be able to help you out here. Even just by going into your local RV retailer you will be able to speak to a representative who can help guide you to making the most intelligent and informative decision here. Just be sure to take your time and make sure that the generator you choose is going to last you and offer enough power for your RV.

You will need a brake adjusting tool, available at most tool supply stores, a jack capable of safely lifting the trailer, and a jack stand to hold the trailer in the jacked position.The following steps are a guide to properly adjusting your trailer brakes. What this entails is the adjustment of the star wheel which in turn sets the brake shoe to brake drum clearance. This adjustment is important - as the brake shoes wear down, the clearance increases. The actuating mechanism must travel further to effectively apply the brakes and a point can be reached where the mechanism is no longer able to so.

Adjusting RV Trailer Brakes

Park the trailer on firm and level ground.

Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no forward or rearward movement is possible.

Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions.

Secure the trailer on jack stands of adequate capacity front and rear.

At the back of the wheel, on the brake backing plate, there is a small rubber plug near the bottom of the backing plate. Pry out this plug to give access to the star wheel adjuster.

Some trailers have a drop axle suspension system and the axle covers most of this adjusting hole making it difficult to use the brake tool. Patience will win out in the end if you keep at it.

Insert the brake adjuster tool and maneuver it so that the tool engages with the teeth in the star wheel. The star wheel looks like a gear with exposed teeth on the perimeter. On most trailers you would pull down on the tool handle which levers on the bottom of the hole and turns the star wheel up (as you are looking at it from the back of the wheel. Just to make it more difficult, the star wheel is located well inside and some maneuvering is required - a flashlight will help to locate the star wheel.

Turn the adjuster until the brake locks up, i.e. you can no longer rotate the wheel by hand. This centers the brake shoes on the brake drum so that they are in the correct position.

Now back off the star wheel 8 to 10 clicks or as specified by the manufacturer. The wheel should spin freely with no apparent drag to slow it down. A slight scraping noise is normal as the wheel turns.

Repeat this procedure for all the wheels.

Congratulations, you have successfully adjusted your own trailer brakes … that wasn’t so bad, was it?

Question: In one of your previous articles you list the RV converter as drawing 5 amps. Since, I believe, the converter is operating any time you plug into a 120 volt AC system (30 Amp), does this mean that in reality you only have 25 amps to work with (30 minus 5 = 25, and not considering clock draws, etc.)? I am developing an electric amp chart to hang inside a cabinet and I need to resolve this question as this would make a significant difference.

First of all let’s talk briefly about what your RV converter does. When you plug your RV into an electrical source, or when you use the onboard generator, the converters job is to reduce 120 volts AC down to 12 volt DC to supply power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. If you weren’t plugged into an electrical source your RV battery(s) would supply the power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. The converter basically prevents your RV battery(s) from draining when you’re plugged in.

There are two types of amperage draw concerning your RV. The AC amps we are using and the DC amps we are using. I’ll try to explain. When you plug your RV into an electrical source and use 120 volt appliances like the roof air conditioner, the microwave and a TV you are drawing amps from the available supply at the campground, usually 30 or 50 amps depending on your RV electrical system and the electrical supply you are plugged into. When you’re plugged into an electrical source and you use DC appliances and accessories like fans, lights, pumps or the TV antenna booster you are drawing amps from the converter. Are you more confused now than when we started? Let’s try wording this a little different.

Let’s say you plug your RV into a 30 amp electrical supply and you only use 120 volt appliances. You’re using available amps from the 30 amp electrical supply for whatever 120 volt appliances are running, but the converter is drawing almost 0 amps because you’re not using any DC accessories. It will use a small amount for items like the LP gas leak detector, clocks or maybe an aisle light, but not enough to really affect the amperage you are plugged into.

Your RV converter is rated for a certain amperage i.e. 30 amps, 45 amps, 55 amps. In other words a 45 amp converter is capable of running 45 amps worth of 12 volt appliances in the RV. When your RV converter is working at its maximum capacity, which in this case is producing 45 amps for 12 volt appliances and accessories, it is drawing around 5 amps out of the 30 amps available from the campground electrical supply.

Let’s say you’re plugged in and you’re using a couple of 12 volt overhead lights (2 amps) and a ceiling fan (4 amps). In this case your converter is drawing very little from the campgrounds 30 amp electrical supply. In another scenario let’s say you’re using a lot of 12 volt overhead lights (8 amps), you’re running the furnace fan (11 amps), water pump (4 amps), 12-volt television (5 amps), range hood fan (2.5 amps), and the battery is being charged by the converter charger (3 amps). Now, when the converter is running close to its full capacity it draws the full 5 amps from the campgrounds 30 amps, leaving you with 25 amps for other 120 volt appliances and accessories. As you can see it’s unlikely that all of this would be happening at one time. The bottom line is the converter amperage draw will fluctuate depending on the 12 volt demand placed on it.

Another question I was asked was; I know my converter is also a battery charger so why won’t it bring my discharged batteries back to a full charge? RV converters do provide a charge to your RV house batteries, but only a small portion of the converters amperage rating is used for this. Normally 3 to 5 amps, which are not nearly enough to charge batteries that are discharged.

The converter battery charger is designed to keep the house batteries topped off with this trickle charge. Another problem with older RV converters is they charge at a fixed voltage in the range of 13.5 volts. If your batteries are fully charged this can be too much for a float charge and over time it will deplete the water level in the batteries cells. This is why it’s important to check the water level in your batteries on a regular basis, especially when you leave the RV plugged in for extended periods of time. You need a three stage charger that can provide a bulk charge then an absorption charge and finally a float charge. Newer RV converters on the market are capable of charging the batteries this way.

Now, to help you out with your amp chart I am including some typical amperage draws for appliances and accessories commonly used in RV’s. Keep in mind I’m not an expert on electricity by any stretch of the imagination. This is just a basic guide to assist you in how many amps you are using at any given time. If you need to know exact amperage ratings you can check the data plate on any motors, appliances or electronic equipment you are using. If you can’t locate a data plate with this information check the appliance or electronic equipment owner’s manual. This information might provide wattage requirements rather than amps. Here are a couple of simple formulas to help you convert some common electrical terms.

Wattage % Volts = Amps Amps X Volts = Wattage

One other thing to keep in mind is many RV appliances require more amps to start the appliance than they do to run the appliance. A roof air conditioner can draw 16 amps to start, but may only use 13 amps once it is running.

120 Volt AC Amp Ratings:

Appliance or Electronic Equipment Estimated Amps
Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 5-6 Amps
Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps
Compact Disc Player 1 Amp
Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps
Converter 1-5 Amps
Crock Pot 1-2 Amps
Curling Iron <1 Amp
Drill 2-6 Amps
Electric Blanket 0.5-1.5 Amps
Electric Fan 1 Amp
Electric Water Heater 9-13 Amps
Electric Skillet 6-12 Amps
Hair Dryer 5-12 Amps
Iron 5-10 Amps
Light (60 watt % 120V) <1 Amp
Microwave 8-13 Amps
Microwave (Convection Oven) 13 Amps
Refrigerator in AC mode 5-8 Amps
Space Heater 8-13 Amps
Television 1.5-4 Amps
Toaster 7-10 Amps
Vacuum (handheld) 2-6 Amps
VCR 1-2 Amps
Washer/Dryer 14-16Amps

12 Volt DC Amp Ratings:

Appliance or Accessory Estimated Amps
Aisle Light 1 Amp
CO Detector 1 Amp
Fluorescent Light 1-2 Amps
Furnace 10-12 Amps
LP Gas Leak Detector 1 Amp
Overhead lights (Per Bulb) 1 Amp
Porch Light 1 Amp
Power Roof Vent 1.5 Amps
Radio/Stereo 4 Amps
Range Hood (Fan & Light) 2-3 Amps
Refrigerator (LP Gas Mode) 1.5- 2 Amps
Security System 1 Amp
Television (12 volt) 4-5 Amps
TV Antenna Booster <1 Amp
TV Antenna Booster 12 Volt outlet Up to 8 Amps
Variable Speed Ceiling / Vent Fan 4 Amps
VCR Recorder / Player 2 Amps
Water Pump 4 Amp

Hopefully this clears up any confusion on the difference between using amps supplied by the campground electrical source (AC amps), and using amps supplied by the converter (DC Amps).

Happy Camping,